The Best of the Dog Doctor Radio Show: Cowboy and Wills

July 31, 2010

The Best of the Dog Doctor Radio Show: Cowboy and Wills

This week we are packing for my first trip to Alaska to get our new house in order before the snow sets in and it makes it too difficult to do any of the many construction projects required to make the house a home.

On the Dog Doctor Radio Show we are bringing back one of our most popular and most listened to segments. It is an interview that Michele did with the author of the best selling book, Cowboy and Wills by Monica Holloway.

Monica wrote the memoir about her son, who is autistic and his female Golden Retriever, Cowboy Carol Lawrence. The book is a touching tale of a boy and his dog and how the two changed each others lives together. It is a must read, not just for dog owners but anyone that is looking for that special type of bond that our four-legged friends provide.

Listen to The Dog Doctor Radio Show: Cowboy and Wills

We would love to have your feedback on the show. You can comment below or send an email to us at


Dr. Robert Forto is the training director for Dog Works Training Centers, a musher training for his first Iditarod under the Team Ineka banner and the host of the popular, Dog Doctor Radio Show.

Give a Dog a Bone, Just Dont Take it Away!

July 28, 2010

Give a Dog a Bone, Just Don’t Take it Away!

By Robert Forto, PhD

As a canine behaviorist at Denver Dog Works I see a lot of dog problems. I deal primarily with canine aggression and nothing can be more frightening than a dog that is possessive. I had a client whose dog was so aggressive if disrupted their entire family’s lifestyle.

The client approached me about two years ago and to this day I will never in my life forget this case: The family consisted of Two Adult Females, two pre-teen girls and two Shiba Inus. One of the Shibas was great but the other was Cujo from You-Know-Where. This Shiba, lets call him Max was so food aggressive that the family literally had to run upstairs and close the door while he ate. When feeding time came around the family set in motion one of the most elaborate and scary displays I have ever seen.

First they would lock the dogs in the laundry room and one of the adults would prepare the food while Max became more agitated and began to bite and attack the other dog. Once the food was prepared the lady would open the laundry room door with a string attached to the handle and hold a broom to ward off Max. Max would run at the lady full blast with its teeth barring while she fought off the dog with the broom as she fled upstairs with the rest of the family.

Max did not return to the bowl to eat, instead he would run around the house like the Tasmanian Devil and proceed to tear up anything he could; couch pillows, shoes, chair legs, everything, within minutes.

Max eventually went over to his bowl and ate his food and would calm down. This whole ritual would take about a half an hour. I observed the incident from the deck through the sliding glass doors. I can honestly say that I have never seen a dog more dangerous in my life. Before the feeding exercise Max appeared to be the perfect family pet laying at our feet while we talked and complied a history for the evaluation.

I never heard back from that family and I attempted calling them back several times to no avail.


Protecting valued assets is an important part of survival in the wild. While I agree that Canis Familiaris (the family dog) is far from being a “wild” animal they are still intrinsically wired that way deep inside their brains. In the wild, a dog that does not protect its valued assets is more likely to starve to death than one that does. Since possessiveness is normal behavior the owner should not punish the dog for it, instead we need to train the dog to think that good things happen when they give their valuables to us humans.

Some simple exercises to work on possessiveness are (not to be used with the example with a dog like Max, but maybe a dog that wont give up his ball, or looks at you “funny” when you take his bone, etc.):

1. Allow the dog to greet guests only when he is sitting. This is one of the tests in the AKC CGC Test, Accepting a Friendly Stranger.

2. Teach the dog “Give it or Drop it” and “Take it.”

3. Teach food bowl exercises (except with a dog like Max, of course) where you can take up the food bowl while your dog sits, you can put your hand in the bowl while he eats, etc.

If you have any questions on canine training or behavior, please give us a call at Denver Dog Works at 303-578-9881.


Dr. Robert Forto is a canine behaviorist and the training director of Denver Dog Works. Dr. Forto can be reached through his website at

Canine C.P.R.

July 27, 2010

Canine C.P.R.

At Denver Dog Works we specialize in canine sports and working dogs. Our training school is not like any other in the Denver area. We train your dog after he already has manners (well, we train for that too) and provide you and your dog “fun” and “challenging” avenues to build the human-canine bond. It is my opinion that every dog needs a job to do. Whether that job is competing in agility, working as a service dog, hiking in the mountains with you, just being a couch potato, or just fetching the morning paper, they need something to occupy their time. With that, dogs can get themselves into trouble, sometimes life-threatening, and you should know what to do in case of an emergency. Denver Dog Works is one of the only schools in Colorado that teaches a canine first aid and C.P.R. course. It not only teaches you how to respond in an emergency, but certifies you too!

In this article I am going to talk about canine cardio pulmonary resuscitation. Knowing this procedure could mean life or death for your best (furry) friend and I will attest I have used it several times on dogs over the years and it does work. I am sure that many of you have been certified from time to time in human C.P.R. at your local Red Cross chapter if you were a life-guard, a boy/girl scout, a babysitter, and myriad other jobs, but did you ever think that your dog may need this life saving procedure too? The steps in canine C.P.R. are very similar to the human counter-part but I do not advise you to expect that the techniques you learned when you were a scout will just magically come back to mind when your dog is in dire distress.

I urge all of you to read this article and sign up for our course in canine first aid and C.P.R. it could be the best decision you ever make for your dog. For more information on upcoming classes check us out at or give us a call at               303-578-9881 anytime.

As I said before, providing C.P.R. to a pet is very much like giving C.P.R. to a human. The same steps are followed:

A. Airway

Is there an open airway from the mouth to the lungs? Can you feel any breath passing in/out of the nose or mouth? Check the mouth by opening the jaws and pulling the tongue forward, and look for any blockages or foreign objects. Remove any foreign objects and check again for breath. If the airway is still blocked, and the pet’s mucous membranes (gums) are blue, then you may need to perform a Heimlich-like action to loosen any object that may be farther back in the throat.

B. Is the animal breathing on its own?

If no objects, food or mucus are obstructing the airway, you may begin artificial respiration. Lay the animal on its side, and gently tilt the head back. Pull the tongue forward. Close your hands around the muzzle to form as airtight a seal as possible, and place your mouth over the nostrils of the pet’s nose. Blow 4-5 breaths rapidly, then check to see if the pet begins to breathe on its own. Smaller pets will need more breaths per minute (20-30) than a large dog that requires only 15-20 breaths per minute.

C. Circulation

Can you feel a heartbeat or pulse? An animal that is alert and responsive, even if it can’t get up, will not require compressions. If there is no heartbeat, then you may begin chest compressions. Lay the pet on its right side, find the point of the pet’s elbow and place it against the ribs. This is where your hands need to go. Compress the chest 1/2 to 1 inch (slightly more for a giant breed or really large dog), and provide a breath every 5-6 compressions (have a second person do the breathing if available). Check for a pulse. Repeat the process if no pulse or heartbeat is detected. Transport the pet to a veterinary hospital as soon as possible; if after twenty minutes your efforts are not producing results, then you have done your best under difficult circumstances.

This article is provided as a general overview of the topic and not meant to be used as instructions at the time of an emergency for your dog. If you would like more information on our canine first aid and C.P.R. classes please give us a call. Always consult your veterinarian for specific information related to diseases or medical care for pets.


Dr. Robert Forto is the training director for Dog Works Training Centers. Dr. Forto hosts a weekly radio program, The Dog Doctor Radio Show, every Saturday at 9:30 am MDT. Dr. Forto can be reached through his website at

We Have the Best and Train the Rest

July 27, 2010

We have the Best and Train the Rest

By Robert Forto, PhD

A lot is said about a training philosophy of a dog training school. Many times it is the first question that is asked when someone calls inquiring about bringing their dog to training. Philosophy means different things to different trainers but I assure you that if you don’t have a clear understanding of what yours is, you will lose customers.

Many people searching for dog training fall into four categories and we will discuss those with regards to your training philosophy and see if you and your training school are positioned correctly to meet the needs of your clients and their dog.

Three Types of Clients

The first type of client is the most common. It is the client whose dog has just destroyed the three thousand dollar leather couch and this is the last straw. They have put up with their dog’s “bad behavior” for too long and need help.

The second type is what I call the “big-box-store-rejects”. These are the clients that have attended a training class at a big box corporate training center and they just didn’t get their needs met. Think about it. Would you go to a doctor at a Wal-Mart? No. These training classes are great for socialization and basic manners but they are not equipped to fix behavioral problems.

The third type is “As Seen on TV” clients. These clients watch a dog training show on cable and realize that their dog has the “exact” same problem as the dog on the show. They may try a couple of the techniques (and with little success), and then call a dog training school and enter into training. The only problem with this is you will often hear them say: “It’s going to cost how much? And take how long? I just saw John (T.V. trainer’s name changed to protect the innocent) do it in 15 minutes on T.V.!”

The fourth type is the client that enjoys working with their dog. They have lived through the puppy stage, the adolescence stage, and the problem stage and now they are ready to have fun! These clients are ready to take sports classes like flyball, agility or Rally, working classes like therapy dog training or Canine Good Citizen testing, and the like.

There is nothing wrong with any of these four types of clients. These are the clients that keep you in business. These are the clients that are calling you because they need help. These are the clients that can bring you endless repeat business and referrals. But you have to meet their expectations and their training goals and this is where your training philosophy is so important.

Training Philosophy of Denver Dog Works in Bullet Points:

• Know Yourself, Know Your Dog.

• A balanced dog is in a state of harmony with Mother Nature—as a calm submissive pack follower who is fulfilled physically with exercise, psychologically with rules and boundaries and limitations and emotionally with affection from his owner.

• Teach my clients the highest level of connection between two species.

• In terms of philosophy, teach my clients to choose a dog that is appropriate for them and their family.

• Teach my clients to acknowledge some deeper reasons for getting a dog: are you imposing your own emotional needs on the dog—and missing what your dog actually needs as a result?

• Teach my client the difference between discipline and punishment and how to set rules and boundaries and limitations on their dog.

• Teach my client what goes on in the canine mind and develop a stronger, more fulfilling relationship with their best friend and give back to their dog just a fraction of the many gifts he has given to you.

We Have the Best and Train the Rest

Our training philosophy at Denver Dog Works is not only a procedure but a lifestyle.

I have learned in the nineteen years of literally living with a pack of dogs and on the sled dog trail that it has offered me a unique perspective. There I was forced to examine my attitude about everything including my dogs. I was constantly challenged to become more open to the language dogs use to communicate with us. This experience confirms our deepest intuitions about the relationship of human beings not only with their dog but every aspect of their lives.

I hope to foster my clients with a diverse and varied understanding of the environment for which they live. I hope to foster a more realistic understanding of their dogs and an increased awareness of the benefits of their companionship.

Drawing on my experience as a kennel owner of 50 Siberian Huskies I will teach my clients how dog training goes far beyond the elementary instruction of basic obedience; as it must encompass a whole new attitude and lifestyle with their dog. It must touch on the levels of a dog’s own life that are often ignored.

In conclusion, I will bring my client into the world of a dog musher, canine behaviorist, and father of three by using my experience as a lens through which they may broaden their understanding of their dog. The stage will then be set for a balanced, lasting relationship between them and their best friend.

If you have any questions or if you would like to have your dog be one of the best trained dogs in the world please give us a call at 303-578-9881 or contact us through our website at


Dr. Robert Forto is the training director of Denver Dog Works and Team Ineka in Colorado. Dr. Forto hosts a weekly radio program, The Dog Doctor Radio Show, every Saturday. Dr. Forto can be reached through his website at

Dominance Aggression

July 26, 2010

Dominance Aggression

By Robert Forto, PhD

Dogs do not see pack members as equals, instead, a hierarchy must be established to show which is of higher and lower rank to keep peace within the pack.  Any number of pack members living together, whether dog or human, must have an established hierarchy in the dog’s eyes, in order to get along.  This hierarchy, although flexible due to the level of motivation in a particular situation, is established and maintained through a variety of communication signals, through vocalization, body language and mute signaling.

When challenged, a lower ranking pack member must quickly demonstrate deferral or submission to the higher ranking dog, in order to avoid aggressive discipline and enforcement to the higher ranking dog. This aggressive enforcement is instigated by the lower ranking pack member failing to defer quickly enough to the higher ranking dog.  This aggressive display is called Dominance Aggression.

·         The dog is in the presence of a valued resource such as; the food bowl with or without food, human food, toys, bones, rawhide, garbage, stolen items, the owner, or sleeping place.

·         A person attempts to remove a valued resource such as those listed above.

·         The dog is approached.

·         The dog is spoken to.

·         The dog is verbally or physically reprimanded.

·         The dog is petted or handled or examined.

·         The dog’s nails are being trimmed.

·         The dog is picked up.

·         The dog is restrained.

·         The dog is disturbed while sitting or sleeping.

·         The dog is lying on an area perceived as a bed or den such as; couch, chair, owner’s bed, dog’s bed, blanket, under a table, etc.

·         A family member is approached, touched or spoken to by an outsider or other family member.

·         Human postures or communication perceived as controlling or challenging such as; direct eye contact, reaching or leaning over top of the dog, approaching or, speaking to the dog, verbally or physically punishing the dog, etc.

How Dominant Dogs Control Their Owners

·         Demanding food or attention.

·         Demanding to be picked up or put down.

·         Demanding play.

·         Being aloof when the owner offers attention.

·         Blocking the owner’s movements with her body.

·         Shoulder and hip slams.

·         Mouthing and biting.

·         Resisting commands.

·         Resisting discipline.

·         Resisting handling.

·         Protecting valued resources.

·         Growling, snarling.

·         Staring.

·         Mounting and pelvic thrusts.

·         Rarely exhibiting submissive body signals such as; lowering the body, looking away, rolling over.

How Owners Contribute to Dominance

·         Games without rules.

·         Allowing the dog to direct human behavior.

·         Rewarding demands for food or attention.

·         Allowing the dog on the furniture.

·         Inconsistency in training.

·         Lack of training.

·         Backing down from challenges.

·         Excessive attention and/or petting

·         Allowing the dog to invade their personal space uninvited.

When Is Dominance Aggression Most Likely to Occur

·         In dogs over one year of age.

·         In dogs bred from one or both dominant or dominant aggressive parents.

·         In intact, purebred dogs.

·         In confident, assertive, excitable dogs.

·         In breeds more prone to dominance ie; spaniels, terriers, toy breeds.

·         In dogs with a history of skin disorders or illness early in life.

Treatment for Dominance Aggression

The Re-Ranking Program

·         Ignore ALL demands. It is the job of the top ranking dog to make the decisions and direct the behavior of the rest of the pack.  By responding to the dog’s demands, no matter how subtle or insignificant, you are allowing the dog to perceive himself as a strong leader.

·         No freebees! The dog must earn absolutely everything of value from a drink of water to a car ride, by performing a previously taught command.

·         Remove all valued resources that elicit an aggressive response.

·         Follow the desensitization program for possessive aggression to prevent or cure possessive aggression.

·         Put the dog on a natural, non-performance diet.

·         Put the dog on a feeding schedule to make treats a more effective training tool.

·         All treats must be earned and used for training and rehabilitation only; it increases their value to the dog.

·         Never feed the dog while preparing or eating food.  In the wild, alpha eats first and can take food from anyone, by giving the dog your food, you are giving she alpha position.

·         Teach food bowl exercises to prevent or cure food bowl aggression.

·         Take back some territory in the home by not allowing the dog access, MINE! The dog must not have access when the owner is away. When the owner is home the barrier is removed and a leash is put on the dog.  If the dog approaches the barrier the owner will growl a warning, “OUT”.  If the dog crosses the barrier the owner walks the dog back out with the leash.

·         Less petting and attention will make the dog earn what she gets.

·         Ration games and only play them WITH RULES.

·         Make the dog hold a short down stay before allowing freedom in a fenced yard.

·         Leave a twenty to forty foot lunge line on the dog while enjoying free time in the yard, occasionally pick up the end of the lunge line and complete a recall.  When  the dog comes in, reward and release.

·         Do not allow the dog on the furniture.  A ten foot leash can be used for removal if she gets up with an “off” command (DO NOT grab her collar to for this correction.

·         Practice placement commands. Hold the ten foot leash, move away from the dog, give the command “come”, when she comes to you, reward and repeat three times.  Release with an “all done” at the end of the exercise.

·         Desensitize the dog to handling and restraint.

·         Teach the dog to “watch me” on command and to hold the eye contact for up to 30 seconds in the presence of major distractions, with the handler establishing and breaking the eye contact.

·         Begin a complete training program using positive reinforcement methods only to increase handler control over and respect from the dog.

·         Always reward good behavior and quick correct responses with something of value to the dog i.e.; treats, toy, game, walk, etc.

·         Teach the dog to “place” and “down stay” for up to thirty minutes, then release.

·         A gentle leader will increase handler control helping the dog to remain calm and focused.  It can be left on the dog indoors until control is established.

·         Use a ten foot indoor lead to increase handler control when necessary.

·         Begin training with the most dominant member of the family and gradually work your way down to the least.

·         List all the triggers for aggression.

·         Systematically desensitize the dog to each aggression trigger.

·         Use counter conditioning to replace unwanted aggressive behavior with a behavior that is incompatible.

·         Use creative avoidance to prevent aggressive episodes.

·         Use environmental management to ensure that the dog’s environment works for, not against, your rehabilitation program.

·         Never leave the dog unsupervised in the presence of anyone who is not a trained part of your rehabilitation program, especially children.

·         Once an obvious new hierarchy has been established you can relax with some of these rules, but if the dog begins to challenge again, even in subtle ways, take control back IMMEDIATELY.


Dr. Robert Forto is the training director for Denver Dog Works and The Ineka Project in Colorado. Dr. Forto hosts a weekly program, The Dog Doctor Radio Show every Saturday. Dr. Forto can be reached though his website at

Learn from a Dog

July 26, 2010


This article was originally published on my blog in September of 2009.

The following story is widely circulated on the Internet. I have no idea who wrote it and I hope the author does not mind if I take the liberty to use it here in this post.

A Dog’s Purpose, from a 4-year-old…Being a veterinarian, I had been called to examine a ten-year-old Irish Wolfhound named Belker. The dog’s owners, Ron, his wife, Lisa, and their little boy, Shane, were all very attached to Belker, and they were hoping for a miracle.

I examined Belker and found he was dying of cancer. I told the family we couldn’t do anything for Belker, and offered to perform the euthanasia procedure for the old dog in their home.

As we made arrangements, Ron and Lisa told me they thought it would be good for four-year-old Shane to observe the procedure. They felt as though Shane might learn something from the experience.

The next day, I felt the familiar catch in my throat as Belker’s family surrounded him. Shane seemed so calm, petting the old dog for the last time, that I wondered if he understood what was going on. Within a few minutes, Belker slipped peacefully away. The little boy seemed to accept Belker’s transition without any difficulty or confusion.

We sat together for a while after Belker’s death, wondering aloud about the sad fact that animal lives are shorter than human lives. Shane, who had been listening quietly, piped up, “I know why.”

Startled, we all turned to him. What came out of his mouth next stunned me. I’d never heard a more comforting explanation.

He said, “People are born so that they can learn how to live a good life, like loving everybody all the time and being nice, right?”

The four-year-old continued, “Well, dogs already know how to do that, so they don’t have to stay as long.”

Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly.

(Robert Forto) I received this story from a colleague the other day and thought I had to share it. While I will always give credit where credit is due, I do not know who wrote this article so I am posting it anonymously. If you do know who wrote it please have them contact me directly at

I struggle with this the context of the story every day. My old dog and my best friend is a 12 year old Siberian Husky named Ineka. It is supposed to mean “rescued friend” in a Northern Canadian language. Anyhow, Ineka has been through thick and thin with not only me, but my family, since we adopted him from a Washington shelter in 2000. They told us he was four at the time but I checked the wear patterns on his teeth and he was closer to two.

I have talked about Ineka a lot over the years in my articles, in my blog posts, and in my canine trainers classes at Denver Dog Works. I even dedicated my doctorate dissertation to him- Chasing the Dream: The History of Human-Canine Communication in the Sport of Dog Sledding (Forto 2005).

I will be sad when his time comes to pass over the rainbow bridge. Who am I kidding, it will devastate me for a long while. But I will pull through and his legacy and what he taught me will live on. As the young boy says in the story, dogs already know how to live the good life, like loving everybody all the time so they don’t have to stay long.

Ineka, well all dogs for that matter, share a special place in most people’s hearts don’t they? They are just the right fix when something is wrong, just the right size to hug when you are feeling blue, listen just long enough when you have a secret, have just enough energy to finish that hike, just enough strength to pull you through the day, just enough courage to keep you motivated, just enough tail wags to make you smile, just enough wisdom to teach the new pup the rules, and just enough love to keep you sane in the worst of time.

So I encourage all of you to get out and do something with your dog today, everyday for the matter. Dogs were put on this earth to teach us something about ourselves. Is that a way to learn or what?

Update: As many of you know our dear friend, Ineka, passed over the Rainbow Bridge on July 13, 2010. I re-read this story from my blog and thought I should re-post it. I don’t know how most of you feel about the passing of a beloved pet, but it is one of the hardest things I have ever went through. It just seems different when a pet passes compared to a person. I do’nt know why. Maybe its because pets show us such unconditional love. Maybe its because we are allowed to make the decision when it is time for them to go. Maybe it is because they can not tell us its time or they hurt or they simply can not continue.

I have had many pets over the years. They were all special. But none quite like Ineka. He was my inspiration for everything I do with dogs and in the worst of times he was my strength. Some say, he was just a dog. Hardly, my friends, hardly–Ineka was my Dreamchaser.


Dr. Robert Forto is the training director of Denver Dog Works and the host of a weekly radio program, The Dog Doctor Radio Show. Dr. Forto can be reached through his website at

The Power of Your Mind in Dog Training

July 25, 2010

The Power of Your Mind in Dog Training

By Robert Forto, PhD

Next weekend we will have an encore airing of one of most popular shows, Mind-Body Dog Training on the Dog Doctor Radio Show. If you want to change the way your dog performs this is something you will not want to miss.

Think about it, you are about to head into the ring for a big obedience match or a conformation show. Of course you are nervous. You have worked so hard for this big day. Up until now you and your dog have been in perfect synchronicity. Haven’t you? You have done your pre-game prep and you are up next.

Then something catches your dogs eye and your whole dog training world comes crumbling down. Your dog gets spooked, you tense up and your dog pulls away. Your run in the ring ends in chaos and you are disqualified. Something you have worked so hard on for the past two years: all of those individual lessons with your private trainer, the perfect pick of the litter puppy, all that money, gone in an instant!

What if you could change that just by harnessing the power of your mind? No, I am not talking about some freakish mind over matter, late night TV infomercial garbage. I am talking about a centuries old process known as Neuro Linguistic Programing (NLP). In a sense it is a model of how we communicate and our personality. While this process has been around for centuries, the NLP model was developed in the 1970’s by Richard Bandler, John Grinder and others. This model explains how we process the information that comes from our outside world. Their belief is “the map is not the territory.” And so the internal representations that we make about an outside event are not necessarily the event itself.

Makes sense doesn’t it? Even in dog training we can use this process to make you and your dog the the best team in the world. Even if you don’t compete and just have a “lazy mutt” that likes to play fetch in the back yard.

You see, Dr. Robert Forto is a practitioner of NLP, and his training school, Denver Dog Works has a motto: We have the best and train the best. By employing the processes of NLP in our training programs we too can make your dog one of the best too. This is cutting edge training in the dog training world. Nobody does this and that is why they can not hold claim to our title.

Do you want to see how it works? Here’s how. Typically what happen is that there is an external event (your dog getting spooked in the ring) an we then run that event though our internal processing. We then make an Internal Representation (I/R) of that event. That I/R of the event combines with a physiology and that creates a state. “State” refers to our emotional state–a happy state, a sad state, a motivated state, or in our case with our dog in the ring, and anxious state. Our I/R includes our internal pictures, sounds and dialogue and our feelings (for example, whether we feel anxious and challenged in our dog’s training and performance). A given state is the result of the combination of an internal representations and a physiology. So what happens is that an event comes through our sensory input channels which I can teach you in NLP training and training your dog to be the best.

After the event becomes an I/R it is how our mind processes this information and the outcome that is achieved. We use filters in our mind to accomplish this and this is where the real power of NLP comes into play. For example I am just going to talk about one: Beliefs. Beliefs are generalizations about how our world is. One of the important elements in the NLP model is to find out a persons beliefs about a particular behavior we are trying to model. Richard Bandler says “Beliefs are those things we can’t get around.” Beliefs are the presuppositions that we have about the way of the world us that we either create or deny personal power to us. So beliefs are essentially our on/off switch for our ability to do anything in the world. In our dog training example. Make you and your dog the best dog team ever! Wouldn’t that be great? Go into the ring and get a qualifying score every time? Heck yes it would!

So if you would like to find out more about mind-body dog training, I highly encourage you to give us a call. We truly to have the best and train the rest. Do you want to win too? Yes you do!

Citation: The Accelerated NLP Practitioner Certification Training Manual


Dr. Robert Forto is the training director of Denver Dog Works and The Ineka Project. Dr. Forto is also a practitioner of NLP and is the host of a weekly show, The Dog Doctor Radio Show and can be reached through his website at